Friday, September 23, 2011

Brgy. Linao

Two kabaws (Philippine Buffalos) wallowing in this clear river of Brgy. Linao. A common sight at the deep portion of the river downstream.
 Barangay Linao got its name from the pristine water flowing along the course of Inopacan River. The freshwater would somehow settle for a while on lowly plain before it proceeds to flow downstream toward the sea in Inopacan bay. The pond of water formed by the settling water is called “linaw” in local dialect, which is basically Bul-anon (Boholano). Thus, it became the name of the place where this pond is can be found and became Brgy. Linao.

Villagers in the barangay and neighboring places would gather here for a swimming picnic, especially when celebrating special occasion in the family and other social gathering such as birthday celebration, baptismal celebration, graduation party, despedida (farewell party), bienvenido (welcome party) and during liwas sa pista (day after the barangay fiesta) for the “hugas”, which literally means “to wash” that connotes the traditional swimming in the river where remaining food in the fiesta were brought and eaten till the last piece is consumed.
 
The creek in Sitio Bacung-bacung is actually part of the smaller river in town also known by its name as the subang gamay (a rivulet). This portion  is the upstream of subang gamay that separates Brgy. Linao from the town proper of Inopacan. A potpot (pedal-powered tribike) crosses the concrete bridge (used to be a bridge made of wooden planks) that connects the Brgy Linao to Poblacion (town proper)
Another common sight in Inopacan river are groups of early morning bathers (locals and vacationers) and people washing their laundry like what these folks are doing in Sitio Bacung-bacung, Brgy. Linao.   
Locals would also fetch their drinking water from the tubod (spring) that have been dug alongside the river like the boy here fetching two gallons of potable water and the men with big plastic water container (jerry cans) for use in their houses.
Bathers, kabaws, and motorcycles (sometimes pedicabs, cars or jeepneys) are sharing the river
On ordinary days, local villagers would hunt here some fish, shrimps and tu (a species of small-sized river crabs) and baki sa tubigan (freshwater frogs) for their food, while some farmers would bring their kabaw (Philippine buffalo) for a dip when days were hot so to keep them cool. Until now, some kabaws are still seen wallowing in the river to these days. We could also find cars, tricycles and motorcycles come by for a wash at the downstream portion of the river near the Brgy. Linao bridge.

Because of Spanish influence, the spelling of “Linao” was used in some literary records and official documents in town and is still used now. Yet both “linaw” and “linao” have the similar diphthong sound in the second syllable.
  
The upstream portion of Inopacan River in Brgy. Linao that curves at the foot of a crag.
After the many flooding in the river and avulsion of riverbanks over many decades, the “linaw” eventually disappeared and what is left now is a flowing river of cool, clear water that curves at the foot of a rocky wall or crag. Though the water is no longer staying still as it used to be, the local folks and their guests would still come to have a swimming picnic in this portion of the Inopacan River.


A habal-habal motorcycle is negotiating the Brgy. Linao Bridge to cross over the Inopacan River.
Brgy. Linao is basically agricultural where some villagers are tending to their coconut farm while few are cultivating their rice fields. Other agricultural products in the barangay would include bananas (plantain), bamboos, and some seasonal fruit-bearing trees.

The place had long been accessible through one of the major rural roads in town. Jeepneys, pedicab (motorized tricycle), potpot (pedal-powered tribike) and habah-habal (a single motorcycle that offers a ride to passengers) are plying along this road. Considering that Brgy. Linao is just less than a kilometer away, one can simply walk his way to get there from the Poblacion (town proper).

These are the common mode of transportation plying the rural road that passes by the Brgy. Linao bridge. A jeepney (above), habal-habal (middle) and pedicab (below)..

Thursday, September 15, 2011

Tuba - the ever popular coconut red wine in Inopacan

(Left) Holding a tagay while on the floor spread with Inopacan-made banig (woven palm mat) This one in the picture is bag-ong dawat (newly gathered tuba, i.e. less than 24 hour-old tuba) and can easily be identified as it is typically effervescent (bubbling, notice the ring of creamy froth on tuba inside the gallon) as the fermentation has just begun; (Right) Two years ago, Nanay Pita offered me this glass of fresh tuba chilled in cracked ice. Sweetish! (I mean it literally)
Freshly gathered tuba is actually creamy in color if tungog is not yet blended into it. Tungog is a dried bark of a particular species of mangroove tree that would give tuba its maroon-orange color and bitter taste. Tungog would prevent the coco sap from becoming sour and allows tuba to ferment and become bahal, then to become bahalina or siete biernes. The process of tuba-making in Inopacan would make tuba more desirable the longer tuba is fermented and the longer it is stored to age, the better it would become.


(Left) A bundle of tungog bark, the kind used by manangguete in Inopacan; (Right) Tungog is pounded into small bits (or even smaller bits than what is shown in the picture) when used as fermentation agent in making tuba.

Tuba is the most popular native wine in town. This bloody colored wine when shared by fellow Inopacnons tantamount to a ceremonial celebration of continuous friendship and bonding much like that of a blood compact. This organic wine is most affordable and plentiful for a meager budget one can afford to buy a drink. This wine would magically turn someone from being reserved to become a verbosely master of the show. Once it gets into your veins, it would kick warmly to awaken your timid blood, thus virtually make you brave that no mosquito would even dare to sting your numb skin.

It is a symbol of pride for Inopacnon to serve their guest the best tuba in town. Sharing some tagay of bahal is a celebration of companionship or friendship. But when bahalina is served, it is considered a royalty treatment or it must be for a special celebration.

There are at least three common way of serving tuba in Inopacan, one is sinagolan, another is may chaser and the manly puro.

  1. sinagolan - tuba is blended with lots of cola (Coke or Pepsi) making the wine very sweet and fruity to your palate and throat
  2. may chaser (tsineseran) - literally said, tuba served with a chaser of cola or any sweet drink, such as juice, chocolate drink, sweetened coffee, etc.. the chaser is immediately served after swigging tuba. You dare to savor first the true taste of tuba then iron out your squirming face with a chaser.
  3. puro - from the Spanish word puro (meaning "pure"). One has to swig a tagay of pure tuba without sipping any chaser afterward. This will surely give you the truest meaning of saying "Ahhh!" to a drink.

Tagay is that serving of wine poured in the glass
A lot of Inopacnons are well versed in tagging the quality of tuba by its smell, transparency in color and by knocking a glass container (usually a gallon or demijohn) filled with tuba. The sounding of "tonk! tonk! tonk" and "tink! tink! tink!" is more often enough to gauge how old the wine is. Telling the age is important; the older, the better.

And nothing is spared by the ingenuity of Inopacnons that even the kisom (sourness) can be easily masked with cola drinks as pangsagol (mixing ingredient) or by the sumsoman (food served in drinking session).

You must have missed something good in Inopacan if you have not experienced the taste of tuba, the one of a kind we have in town.



For the benefit of those who do not know how tuba is produced and collected from the coconut tree and how tuba from being bag-ong dawat would become a bahalina, read the following paragraphs lifted from Edgie Polistico's Philippine Food and Cooking Dictionary.


tuba – (tu-bâ; Visayas, Mindanao, Quezon & Lagueño native wine) [n.] coconut red wine (Visayan & Mindanawanon) coconut wine (Quezonian & Lagueño) \palm toddy.

In Quezon and Laguna provinces, this is turbid or milky white in color as it is served pure by the tuba gatherer, but must be consumed immediately in one or two days from harvest; beyond that, the tuba sours to become vinegar.

This same kind of harvested palm toddy is made red or maroon in color in Visayas and Mindanao due to the mixture of pounded or ground bark of tungog (a.k.a. barok) to allow the coconut wine to ferment and help prevent tuba from becoming sour.

The making of tuba starts when the tuba gatherer called “mananguete” climbs a coconut tree in the early morning. While on top the coconut tree, he would sit on the base of palm’s frond and looks for a newly sprouting bud of bunch of coconut flower that is still completely encased in its green pod (takong). The bud of coconut fruit (inflorescence) is lopped off by slicing its very tip using a razor-sharp sanggot (scythe) to cause the sap to ooze out from the bud. The stalk of the wounded bud is then pushed down to force it to bend and to position its tip to point downward making it easy to collect the dripping juice as it drips.

A container called pasok (small and short bamboo tube with a diameter enough to fit the size of the bud, also called sugong in the western part of Leyte) is then attached by inserting the wounded tip of the bud into the mouth of pasok and sealed by wrapping around a sheat of ginit (coconut sheat) and tying it securely with lapnis (strips from coconut frond’s bark or strip of rattan). This is done to prevent the rainwater from contaminating with the collected sap if the rain comes. With the availability of plastic cellophane and synthetic straw string, ginit and lapnis are sometimes no longer used as wrapper and binder.

Pasok is then left hanging on the tip of the bud for the whole day to collect the slowly dripping sap. The mananguete would climb down and proceed to another coconut tree to do the same routine.

By afternoon, the mananguete would climb back to gather the juice collected in the pasok and pour it into the hungot or kawit (big bamboo pole container) brought along by the mananguete which he hung behind his shoulder (a wooden hook that fits the shoulder is attached on it, making it easy to carry up and down in the tree). The emptied pasok is then cleaned using a pitlagong (bamboo plunger, also called patok or patek in Ilonggo) that would scrape off the sediments left behind and the assorted kinds of insects that came into it. The waste is thrown out by tapping the pitlagong on the frond of coconut palm.
1)The manangguete (tuba gatherer) lops off the bud of coconut fruit (inflorescence) using a razor-sharp sanggot (scythe). Refreshing the wound will assure continuous oozing of sap from the bud. 2) A bud of coconut fruit (inflorescence) still encased in green takong (coconut pod)


Then the tip of the bud is sliced off again to freshen the wound so that the coconut juice would continue to ooze out and drip. This is necessary because an old wound retards the oozing out of sap from the bud. The pasok is placed back on the tip of the bud before the mananguete would climb down

At the ground, the collected tuba is stored in glass or plastic gallon; and if plenty, it is stored in damahuwana or damahan (demijohn) that is now commonly replaced by 5-gallon plastic container shaped like a jerry can.

1) Tuba content is transferred from the sugong (bamboo tube) into the damahan (5-gallon container) in Sitio Tabuk, Brgy. Tao-taon, Inopacan, Leyte; 2) PET bottle is now used as receptacle to collect the dripping sap. Conventional receptacle is one made with bamboo tube. This sanggotan (coconut tree cultivated to produce tuba) is at the Reclamation Area (Pasil) that I found along the dike of Inopacan river.


Everyday thereafter, the mananguete routinely tend to the same coconut bud until about half of its length is totally sliced off and the bud’s takong (pod) would start to burst open and the tentacle-like stalks (butay) inside are no longer tender. When freshly gathered from the coconut tree, tuba is milky-white in color, tastes sweet, and effervescent (continuously producing tiny bubbles creating a cream-colored froth). This freshly gathered tuba, with no tungog in it, is said to be good for nursing mothers (as a last resort).

The unblended tuba will last only for one day as it immediately turns sour on the next day that eventually becomes sukang tuba on several days more. If the freshly gathered tuba is mixed with tungog (a.k.a. barok), it tastes bitter-sweet and turns reddish-orange in color. If tungog is added the earliest possible time, as if the juice is still in the pitlagong or sugong, the coconut sap is prevented from immediately becoming sour, instead the tungog-blended juice would ferment and would be aged over time to become bahal or bahalina. A tuba that is freshly fermented with tungog and still effervescent is called bag-ong dawat (a day-old or freshly gathered tuba).
1) A newly gathered tuba would froth to the brim. It is typically effervescent for bag-ong dawat (a day-old tuba); 2) The typical sanggotan (coconut tree cultivated to produce tuba) in Inopacan.

After about 12 hours of fermentation, the effervescence stops and the coconut wine becomes bahal (or lina in some other places), meaning the wine is a full pledge tuba. For the first 2 weeks, tuba is filtered by siphoning to decant it out from its storage, leaving behind the lawog (sediments) that settles at the bottom of the container.

After a month of fermentation, tuba is called bahalina that is darker in color and tastes and smells like a fruit red wine. The longer it is aged the better it becomes. Tuba must be stored under shade, better if not totally exposed to any form of light, that is why some tuba maker bury their jars of tuba in the ground or hide them inside the house and covered the jars with black cloth to avoid the souring bacteria to subsist that is responsible of the souring of tuba. The container must also be filled up to its brim, devoid of any air inside, and tightly sealed the opening to prevent the airborne souring bacteria from contaminating the coconut wine. A contaminated tuba will tastes sour and becomes vinegar called sukang tuba.

For more about tuba, click here


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Author of Philippine Food, Cooking, and Dining Dictionary - the first and only published Pinoy food and dining dictionary. The book won the national category as Philippine's finalist to the Gourmand Awards international food writing contest in Yantai, Shandong, China to be held in May 2017. A lexicographer who began to compile and wrote his first vernacular dictionaries at the age of 14. A collector of contemporary and vintage dictionaries, both local and foreign.  A linguist studying the many dialects you can find in the Philippines. A blogger maintaining at least 11 blog sites. A researcher of food culture, Pinoy pop culture, interesting places and structures in the country, local transportations, Philippine churches and other places of worship of any religion and beliefs, local anthropology, socio-cultural issues, and whatever interesting about the Philippines and the Filipinos. A visual artist who uses pencil, watercolor, pen, and fingers as medium of expression - once an editorial cartoonist of local broadsheet and campus publications. Created his first hand-made comics magazine and participated the Marian watercolor exhibits in his hometown parish while in high school. A photographer taking at least 2K photos a week in the field while on travel for almost two decades now.  A poet hiding most of the time. A low-profile historian studying continually the origins, history, and progression of many places in the country. A computer programmer who wrote the codes and designed the software application of his digital Cebuano-English dictionary and distributed it for free around the country and over the internet. A traveler who had been to all four corners of the Philippine archipelago, and still setting more footprints anywhere in the country.  A holder of professional driver's license once took the wheels for UBER. A home cook who loves to enhance, modify, elaborate, experiment if not invent more of  Pinoy dishes and delicacies.

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